Before the winter and early spring obsession with citrus concludes, I must share one of my favorite lemon recipes. And shock, it's by Dorie Greenspan from her award-winning cookbook Baking: From My Home to Yours.
This tart is simple and its flavors bright. The star of the show is the flavor lemon. You begin with a buttery, tender shortbread crust. Then you fill it with the most extraordinary French lemon cream. Dorie received this recipe from the famous Pierre Herme and it is velvety-lemon genius. A word to the wise, throw all caution to the wind when making this tart, people. Because the lemon cream alone contains a full two sticks of butter. Just make it, bake it and enjoy it. It's worth it.
My biggest advice is to follow the chilling time for the lemon cream. It makes all the difference. The tangy, buttery cream needs a chance to rest, set and let its lemon flavors intensify. I served mine with fresh raspberries to my friends and it was the hit of the party. Give Dorie's recipe for The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart a try before all those luscious in-season lemons disappear.
See all my other posts from this same cookbook, here.
Makes 8 servings
The filling in this tart is everything. It is the lemon cream I learned to make from Pierre Hermé, and it is the ne plus ultra
of the lemon world. The tart is basic—a great crust, velvety lemon
cream—and profoundly satisfying. It is also profoundly play-aroundable.
You can add a fruit topping (circlets of fresh rasp-berries are
spectacular with this tart) or a layer of fruit at the bottom; you can
finish the tart with meringue; or you can serve it with anything from
whipped cream to raspberry coulis.
Ingredients:
1 9-inch tart shell made with Sweet Tart Dough, fully baked and cooled
1 9-inch tart shell made with Sweet Tart Dough, fully baked and cooled
1 cup sugar
Finely grated zest of 3 lemons
4 large eggs
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4-5 lemons)
2 sticks plus 5 tablespoons (10-1/2 ounces)
unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size
pieces, at room temperature
Finely grated zest of 3 lemons
4 large eggs
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4-5 lemons)
2 sticks plus 5 tablespoons (10-1/2 ounces)
unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size
pieces, at room temperature
Directions:
Getting Ready: Have an instant-read thermometer, a strainer and a blender (first choice) or food processor at hand. Bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan.
Getting Ready: Have an instant-read thermometer, a strainer and a blender (first choice) or food processor at hand. Bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan.
Put
the sugar and zest in a large heatproof bowl that can be set over the
pan of simmering water. Off the heat, rub the sugar and zest together
between your fingers until the sugar is moist, grainy and very aromatic.
Whisk in the eggs, followed by the lemon juice.
Set
the bowl over the pan, and start stirring with the whisk as soon as the
mixture feels tepid to the touch. Cook the lemon cream until it reaches
180 degrees F. As you whisk—you must whisk constantly to keep the eggs
from scrambling—you’ll see that the cream will start out light and
foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger, and then, as it gets closer to
180 degrees F, it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks.
Heads up at this point—the tracks mean the cream is almost ready. Don’t
stop whisking or checking the temperature, and have patience—depending
on how much heat you’re giving the cream, getting to temp can take as
long as 10 minutes.
As
soon as it reaches 180 degrees F, remove the cream from the heat and
strain it into the container of the blender (or food processor); discard
the zest. Let the cream stand, stirring occasionally, until it cools to
140 degrees F, about 10 minutes.
Turn
the blender to high (or turn on the processor) and, with the machine
going, add the butter about 5 pieces at a time. Scrape down the sides of
the container as needed as you incorporate the butter. Once the butter
is in, keep the machine going—to get the perfect light, airy texture of
lemon-cream dreams, you must continue to blend the cream for another 3
minutes. If your machine protests and gets a bit too hot, work in
1-minute intervals, giving the machine a little rest between beats.
Pour
the cream into a container, press a piece of plastic wrap against the
surface to create an airtight seal and refrigerate for at least 4 hours
or overnight. (The cream will keep in the fridge for 4 days and, or
tightly sealed, in the freezer for up to 2 months; thaw it overnight in
the refrigerator.)
When
you are ready to assemble the tart, just whisk the cream to loosen it
and spoon it into the tart shell. Serve the tart, or refrigerate ‘until
needed.
Serving:
It’s a particular pleasure to have this tart when the cream is cold and
the crust is at room temperature. A raspberry or other fruit coulis is
nice, but not necessary; so is a little crème fraîche. I know it sounds
odd to offer something as rich as crème fraîche with a tart like this,
but it works because the lemon cream is so light and so intensely
citric, it doesn’t taste or feel rich.
Storing: While you can make the lemon cream ahead, once the tart is constructed, it’s best to eat it the day it is made.
Sweet Tart Dough
Makes enough for one 9-inch crust
Storing:
Well wrapped, the dough can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 5
days or frozen for up to 2 months. While the fully baked crust can be
packed airtight and frozen for up to 2 months, I prefer to freeze the
unbaked crust in the pan and bake it directly from the freezer—it has a
fresher flavor. Just add about 5 minutes to the baking time.
In
French, this dough is called pâte sablée because it is buttery, tender
and sandy (that’s what sablée means). It’s much like shortbread, and
it’s ideal for filling with fruit, custard or chocolate.
The
simplest way to make a tart shell with this dough is to press it into
the pan. You can roll out the dough, but the high proportion of butter
to flour and the inclusion of confectioners’ sugar makes it finicky to
roll. I always press it into the pan, but if you want to roll it, I
suggest you do so between sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper or inside a
rolling slipcover (see page 491 of the book).
Ingredients:
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 tablespoons)
very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 tablespoons)
very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
Directions:
Put the flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse a couple of times to combine. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in—you should have some pieces the size of oatmeal flakes and some the size of peas. Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses—about 10 seconds each—until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change—heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate any dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing.
Put the flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse a couple of times to combine. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in—you should have some pieces the size of oatmeal flakes and some the size of peas. Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses—about 10 seconds each—until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change—heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate any dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing.
To
press the dough into the pan: Butter a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a
removable bottom. Press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the
sides of the pan, using all but one little piece of dough, which you
should save in the refrigerator to patch any cracks after the crust is
baked. Don’t be too heavy-handed—press the crust in so that the edges of
the pieces cling to one another, but not so hard that the crust loses
its crumbly texture. Freeze the crust for at least 30 minutes,
preferably longer, before baking.
To partially or fully bake the crust: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Butter
the shiny side of a piece of aluminum foil and fit the foil, buttered
side down, tightly against the crust. (Since you froze the crust, you
can bake it without weights.) Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and
bake the crust for 25 minutes. Carefully remove the foil. If the crust
has puffed, press it down gently with the back of a spoon. For a
partially baked crust, patch the crust if necessary, then transfer the
crust to a cooling rack (keep it in its pan).
To
fully bake the crust: Bake for another 8 minutes or so, or until it is
firm and golden brown. (I dislike lightly baked crusts, so I often keep
the crust in the oven just a little longer. If you do that, just make
sure to keep a close eye on the crust’s progress—it can go from golden
to way too dark in a flash.) Transfer the tart pan to a rack and cool
the crust to room temperature before filling.
To
patch a partially or fully baked crust, if necessary: If there are any
cracks in the baked crust, patch them with some of the reserved raw
dough as soon as you remove the foil. Slice off a thin piece of the
dough, place it over the crack, moisten the edges and very gently smooth
the edges into the baked crust. If the tart will not be baked again
with its filling, bake for another 2 minutes or so, just to take the
rawness off the patch.
Sweet Tart Dough with Nuts:
This dough has a slightly more assertive flavor than Sweet Tart Dough
above, but you can use the two interchangeably. For the nut dough,
reduce the amount of flour to 1-1/4 cups and add 1/4 cup finely ground
almonds (or walnuts, pecans or pistachios).






